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一晃整整30年了……

在雪域高原西藏,長年駕車在“天路”上奔馳的高原汽車兵,常常面臨著塌方、雪崩、洪水、泥石流及高寒缺氧的種種考驗,甚至是生與死的洗禮

——題記


這個煙雨朦朧的午夜,我又想起了1995年夏天,在那個風雨交加的夜晚,在西藏那片神秘的雪域高原,我曾經與死神擦肩而過。

那是1995年7月下旬,我所在的駐西藏某汽車部隊79分隊奉命為駐亞東縣某邊防部隊運送建筑物資。在去亞東途中,因為正值雨季,所以原本崎嶇不平的簡易公路,更加泥濘難行。

一路顛簸,使我們班里車況較差的19號車,拋錨在海拔5100多米的嘎拉兵站。連長命令班長和我在“八一”建軍節之前,必須把19號車安全地拖回駐地。
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因為忙于卸貨,我們錯過了早餐時間。為了趕時間,班長和我在商店買了兩袋“康師傅”用開水泡了充饑,便匆匆上路。


?天公不作美!當我們中午剛剛牽引著19號車從嘎拉兵站出發,雨就嘩嘩地下個不停,好像在故意跟我們作對。因為路面坑坑洼洼,下雨又滑,加上拖著一輛汽車,所以28號車總是熄火。俗話說:屋漏偏逢連夜雨!在過一條水溝時,汽車馬達因為沾水而不能正常運轉,每次熄火都得用搖手柄發動,這個任務當然非我莫屬。所以,幾次下來我便渾身濕淋淋的,像只落湯雞。

傍晚時分,雨越來越大,使坷坎崎嶇的道路更加難行。大雨滂沱導致山洪暴發,引起泥石流沖毀公路和塌方,使我們行車如履薄冰、驚險萬分。
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夜里11點多,在距離抗英名城江孜縣城20公里處,我們遇到了可怕的泥石流。密集的雨點模糊了視線,在過一股橫穿公路的湍急的泥石流時,28號車發動機因為進了水而熄火。在高原汽車兵中流傳著這樣一句話:“泥石流面前,神仙也無策!”所以,我們只好呆坐在駕駛室里,任憑泥石流向汽車發著淫威,進行一次又一次的沖擊。


?夜,已經很深了。雨不但沒有停,連風也開始怒吼起來??耧L夾著暴雨,讓泥石流變得瘋狂起來,歇斯底里地咆哮著撲向阻擋自己去路的汽車,好像要把汽車整個吞掉才甘心似的。漸漸地,有水漫過了密封的駕駛室門窗,車身在泥石流的淫威下,輕輕顫抖……不一會兒,車頭就順著泥石流的流向傾斜。駕駛室里也開始一點一點地浸水,泥水漫過了腳背,冰冷刺骨的感覺,遍布全身……

汽車在不停地向泥石流的中心挪動,我與班長面臨著車毀人亡的危險。在極度的恐懼中,我感覺死神正獰笑著一步步向我們走來。一向鎮靜自如的班長,像是自言自語又像是安慰我,總是一個勁地說:“沒事、沒事,泥石流一會就過去了……”然而,在當時的情況下,他的言語是多么的蒼白和無力。
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自從上午吃了一袋“康師傅”后,就一直沒有食物祭祭我的“五臟廟”了,肚子餓得開始咕咕叫。在饑寒交迫下,倦意重重襲來,我裹緊軍大衣和班長靠在一起相互取暖。也許是真的太累了,不知不覺中我迷迷糊糊進入了夢鄉……


? “喂,忠實!快醒醒,有車隊來了!”班長因興奮而顯得無比激動的聲音,把我從睡夢中驚醒。

當我揉揉惺忪的睡眼望去,后方傳來的密集的燈光告訴我正有車隊向我們駛來。而且,雨不知什么時候停了,泥石流好像也困了,沒有了剛才兇猛的氣勢。

“班長,我們的車沒有被泥石流沖走?我不是在做夢吧?”

“小子,如果再下半小時的雨,我們就完蛋了!剛才我們與死神擦肩而過,哈哈,真夠刺激!”班長的回答,充滿了劫后余生的感慨。
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燈光越來越近,半小時后,我終于看清了是兄弟連隊八連的車。這時,泥石流也停了,只是還有一些渾濁的水,在斯斯文文地流淌。


極度的興奮,讓我忘記了饑餓、寒冷與疲勞。我打開車門,發現我們的兩輛汽車都深深地陷在泥沙和石頭里,八連副連長指揮四輛車費了九牛二虎之力,才把車從沙石里拉出來,停到安全的地方。

班長受了風寒,感冒引發高原肺水腫,咳嗽得厲害,便搭八連的車去江孜兵站,留下我獨自守車,等待連隊的救援。

第二天早上,連長和班長帶著四輛車趕來,并為我買了兩斤香噴噴熱氣騰騰的肉餡小籠包。一天一夜沒吃東西了,我狼吞虎咽起來,把包子一掃而光,心滿意足地飽餐了一頓。在我的記憶中,那是我此生吃得最香最可口的一次早餐了,至今仍令我回味無窮。
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如今,我早已脫下心愛的軍裝,在火熱的南方漂泊。每當遇到失意和挫折,我便會不由自主地回憶起那個曾經與死神擦肩而過的高原的雨夜,想起在西藏當兵的艱苦歲月,它使我懂得了怎樣珍惜生命、熱愛生活;使我在物欲橫流的滾滾紅塵里,沒有在燈紅酒綠的世界里迷失自己,不為金錢所迷惑;使我擁有一份淡泊寧靜的心靈,讓我的生活遠離塵世的浮華與喧囂,永遠陽光明媚、云淡風輕!

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【備注】現在中印對峙事件發生的洞朗地區,就屬于文中的亞東縣的下亞東——

亞東縣屬于西藏日喀則市所屬,地處西藏南部、喜馬拉雅山脈中段南麓,與錫金、不丹、印度接壤,為西藏自治區邊境縣之一。亞東縣屬喜馬拉雅山高山地貌。平均海拔3500米,北部寬高,南部窄低。亞東總體地貌為一山溝。堆納鄉和帕里鎮之間有一面積約1000平方公里的山麓沖擊平原。亞東縣北部地勢高,海拔一般在4300米以上,地形較開闊,起伏較平緩。

亞東縣因懸殊的海拔高度,形成了截然不同的兩種氣候,以帕里鎮為界,北部海拔均在4300米以上,生長期約150天,霜期280天。降水量為410毫米。南部海拔大幅度下降,平均海拔為2800米,氣候濕潤,森林茂密,生長期210天,霜期160天,年降水量873毫米。自然災害有地震、洪水、暴風雪、泥石流、滑坡、干旱、冰雹等。
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雪域汽車兵


李忠實

皚皚的雪域西藏
我們馳騁在千里冰封線
風里去,雨里來
圓圓的思念
被滾滾車輪壓成一條直線
向著遠方,無限延長


汽車兵的耳畔
回蕩著十八軍將士
進藏時的陣陣吶喊
于是斗志昂揚胸懷寬廣
如奔騰不息的
雅魯藏布江


寂靜的夜晚,枕著
珠穆朗瑪峰腳下的土地
朦朧而眠
在清悠的夢里
采一朵圣潔的雪蓮
獻給心愛的姑娘
讓她,悄悄露出天使般的微笑

高原之風
吹不滅綠色的信念
七月飛雪
冰凍不了報國的熱血
駕駛著滾滾鐵騎
我們為雪山哨卡送去
祖國和人民殷殷的關懷與祝福
為后方的城市與村莊
換來安寧與和平

萬家團圓的日子
我們仍在雪域高原奔馳
穿過雪海,走過草原
悠揚的汽笛聲
在茫茫無人區隨風飄蕩
久久回響

1996年10月作于西藏浪卡子縣兵站
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1996年10月29日夜晚的雪

李忠實

如果能未仆先知
我就會多買幾節五號電池
等待第一朵雪花
先在理光相機鏡頭里定格
再盈盈飄落臉上


那個時候,我身著軍裝
執行格爾木運輸建材回拉薩的任務
在青藏線上,過南山口,夜宿納赤臺兵站
刺骨的寒風,吹來鵝毛大雪
覆蓋了原野與村莊
一輪明月與兵站的燈火交相輝映
還是敵不過一個夜晚
整個世界,被雪下亮


那是1996年的10月29日
我的二十一歲生日之夜
兩個雪白的饅頭,一碗米飯,一份豬肉燉粉條
就是奢侈的生日晚餐
我的青春卻格外飽滿
漫天的雪花是我的生日祝福
被雪下暖的,還有一首詩
陪伴了我這么多年
今晚提筆,回饋雪給予的一片柔情

【注】這首詩歌已經在《西藏日報》發表,并被軍旅雜志《前衛文學》2017第四期選用

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在雪域高原西藏,長年駕車在“天路”上奔馳的高原汽車兵,常常面臨著塌方、雪崩、洪水、泥石流及高寒缺氧的種種考驗,甚至是生與死的洗禮

——題記


這個煙雨朦朧的午夜,我又想起了1995年夏天,在那個風雨交加的夜晚,在西藏那片神秘的雪域高原,我曾經與死神擦肩而過。

那是1995年7月下旬,我所在的駐西藏某汽車部隊79分隊奉命為駐亞東縣某邊防部隊運送建筑物資。在去亞東途中,因為正值雨季,所以原本崎嶇不平的簡易公路,更加泥濘難行。

一路顛簸,使我們班里車況較差的19號車,拋錨在海拔5100多米的嘎拉兵站。連長命令班長和我在“八一”建軍節之前,必須把19號車安全地拖回駐地。
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因為忙于卸貨,我們錯過了早餐時間。為了趕時間,班長和我在商店買了兩袋“康師傅”用開水泡了充饑,便匆匆上路。


?天公不作美!當我們中午剛剛牽引著19號車從嘎拉兵站出發,雨就嘩嘩地下個不停,好像在故意跟我們作對。因為路面坑坑洼洼,下雨又滑,加上拖著一輛汽車,所以28號車總是熄火。俗話說:屋漏偏逢連夜雨!在過一條水溝時,汽車馬達因為沾水而不能正常運轉,每次熄火都得用搖手柄發動,這個任務當然非我莫屬。所以,幾次下來我便渾身濕淋淋的,像只落湯雞。

傍晚時分,雨越來越大,使坷坎崎嶇的道路更加難行。大雨滂沱導致山洪暴發,引起泥石流沖毀公路和塌方,使我們行車如履薄冰、驚險萬分。
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夜里11點多,在距離抗英名城江孜縣城20公里處,我們遇到了可怕的泥石流。密集的雨點模糊了視線,在過一股橫穿公路的湍急的泥石流時,28號車發動機因為進了水而熄火。在高原汽車兵中流傳著這樣一句話:“泥石流面前,神仙也無策!”所以,我們只好呆坐在駕駛室里,任憑泥石流向汽車發著淫威,進行一次又一次的沖擊。


?夜,已經很深了。雨不但沒有停,連風也開始怒吼起來??耧L夾著暴雨,讓泥石流變得瘋狂起來,歇斯底里地咆哮著撲向阻擋自己去路的汽車,好像要把汽車整個吞掉才甘心似的。漸漸地,有水漫過了密封的駕駛室門窗,車身在泥石流的淫威下,輕輕顫抖……不一會兒,車頭就順著泥石流的流向傾斜。駕駛室里也開始一點一點地浸水,泥水漫過了腳背,冰冷刺骨的感覺,遍布全身……

汽車在不停地向泥石流的中心挪動,我與班長面臨著車毀人亡的危險。在極度的恐懼中,我感覺死神正獰笑著一步步向我們走來。一向鎮靜自如的班長,像是自言自語又像是安慰我,總是一個勁地說:“沒事、沒事,泥石流一會就過去了……”然而,在當時的情況下,他的言語是多么的蒼白和無力。
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自從上午吃了一袋“康師傅”后,就一直沒有食物祭祭我的“五臟廟”了,肚子餓得開始咕咕叫。在饑寒交迫下,倦意重重襲來,我裹緊軍大衣和班長靠在一起相互取暖。也許是真的太累了,不知不覺中我迷迷糊糊進入了夢鄉……


? “喂,忠實!快醒醒,有車隊來了!”班長因興奮而顯得無比激動的聲音,把我從睡夢中驚醒。

當我揉揉惺忪的睡眼望去,后方傳來的密集的燈光告訴我正有車隊向我們駛來。而且,雨不知什么時候停了,泥石流好像也困了,沒有了剛才兇猛的氣勢。

“班長,我們的車沒有被泥石流沖走?我不是在做夢吧?”

“小子,如果再下半小時的雨,我們就完蛋了!剛才我們與死神擦肩而過,哈哈,真夠刺激!”班長的回答,充滿了劫后余生的感慨。
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燈光越來越近,半小時后,我終于看清了是兄弟連隊八連的車。這時,泥石流也停了,只是還有一些渾濁的水,在斯斯文文地流淌。


極度的興奮,讓我忘記了饑餓、寒冷與疲勞。我打開車門,發現我們的兩輛汽車都深深地陷在泥沙和石頭里,八連副連長指揮四輛車費了九牛二虎之力,才把車從沙石里拉出來,停到安全的地方。

班長受了風寒,感冒引發高原肺水腫,咳嗽得厲害,便搭八連的車去江孜兵站,留下我獨自守車,等待連隊的救援。

第二天早上,連長和班長帶著四輛車趕來,并為我買了兩斤香噴噴熱氣騰騰的肉餡小籠包。一天一夜沒吃東西了,我狼吞虎咽起來,把包子一掃而光,心滿意足地飽餐了一頓。在我的記憶中,那是我此生吃得最香最可口的一次早餐了,至今仍令我回味無窮。
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如今,我早已脫下心愛的軍裝,在火熱的南方漂泊。每當遇到失意和挫折,我便會不由自主地回憶起那個曾經與死神擦肩而過的高原的雨夜,想起在西藏當兵的艱苦歲月,它使我懂得了怎樣珍惜生命、熱愛生活;使我在物欲橫流的滾滾紅塵里,沒有在燈紅酒綠的世界里迷失自己,不為金錢所迷惑;使我擁有一份淡泊寧靜的心靈,讓我的生活遠離塵世的浮華與喧囂,永遠陽光明媚、云淡風輕!

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【備注】現在中印對峙事件發生的洞朗地區,就屬于文中的亞東縣的下亞東——

亞東縣屬于西藏日喀則市所屬,地處西藏南部、喜馬拉雅山脈中段南麓,與錫金、不丹、印度接壤,為西藏自治區邊境縣之一。亞東縣屬喜馬拉雅山高山地貌。平均海拔3500米,北部寬高,南部窄低。亞東總體地貌為一山溝。堆納鄉和帕里鎮之間有一面積約1000平方公里的山麓沖擊平原。亞東縣北部地勢高,海拔一般在4300米以上,地形較開闊,起伏較平緩。

亞東縣因懸殊的海拔高度,形成了截然不同的兩種氣候,以帕里鎮為界,北部海拔均在4300米以上,生長期約150天,霜期280天。降水量為410毫米。南部海拔大幅度下降,平均海拔為2800米,氣候濕潤,森林茂密,生長期210天,霜期160天,年降水量873毫米。自然災害有地震、洪水、暴風雪、泥石流、滑坡、干旱、冰雹等。
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雪域汽車兵


李忠實

皚皚的雪域西藏
我們馳騁在千里冰封線
風里去,雨里來
圓圓的思念
被滾滾車輪壓成一條直線
向著遠方,無限延長


汽車兵的耳畔
回蕩著十八軍將士
進藏時的陣陣吶喊
于是斗志昂揚胸懷寬廣
如奔騰不息的
雅魯藏布江


寂靜的夜晚,枕著
珠穆朗瑪峰腳下的土地
朦朧而眠
在清悠的夢里
采一朵圣潔的雪蓮
獻給心愛的姑娘
讓她,悄悄露出天使般的微笑

高原之風
吹不滅綠色的信念
七月飛雪
冰凍不了報國的熱血
駕駛著滾滾鐵騎
我們為雪山哨卡送去
祖國和人民殷殷的關懷與祝福
為后方的城市與村莊
換來安寧與和平

萬家團圓的日子
我們仍在雪域高原奔馳
穿過雪海,走過草原
悠揚的汽笛聲
在茫茫無人區隨風飄蕩
久久回響

1996年10月作于西藏浪卡子縣兵站
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1996年10月29日夜晚的雪

李忠實

如果能未仆先知
我就會多買幾節五號電池
等待第一朵雪花
先在理光相機鏡頭里定格
再盈盈飄落臉上


那個時候,我身著軍裝
執行格爾木運輸建材回拉薩的任務
在青藏線上,過南山口,夜宿納赤臺兵站
刺骨的寒風,吹來鵝毛大雪
覆蓋了原野與村莊
一輪明月與兵站的燈火交相輝映
還是敵不過一個夜晚
整個世界,被雪下亮


那是1996年的10月29日
我的二十一歲生日之夜
兩個雪白的饅頭,一碗米飯,一份豬肉燉粉條
就是奢侈的生日晚餐
我的青春卻格外飽滿
漫天的雪花是我的生日祝福
被雪下暖的,還有一首詩
陪伴了我這么多年
今晚提筆,回饋雪給予的一片柔情

【注】這首詩歌已經在《西藏日報》發表,并被軍旅雜志《前衛文學》2017第四期選用

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