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葡萄牙 波爾圖, Portugal Porto, June 19-22 2024

勞倫斯

下一站是波爾圖,葡萄牙的第二大城市。 它在布拉格西南面大約60公里。 有城際巴士來往,路程大約一個小時。單程票價歐元3.49。 網上訂票還可以選坐位,要另加收歐元2.99。我挑選了靠近司機的第一排位子,可以一覽無遺沿途的風景了。<div><br><div>Porto was the next stop on this trip, the second largest city in Portugal. It is about 60 kilometres southwest of Braga. The intercity buses connect two cities. The ticket costs 3.49 euros with the seat selection option, which adds another 2.99 euros. I selected the first-row seat near the driver, where I could have the full view along the way.<br></div><div><br></div></div> 布拉格巴士站的二樓有餐廳,里面坐滿了人。有三個服務員穿梭于餐桌之間招呼客人。一個服務員和在一張小桌子上吃飯的老人講了幾句話,她把桌子整理一下,示意我過來坐下。我聽說過葡萄牙北部有分享餐桌,分享美食的風俗習慣。真沒有想到在這里就體驗到了。我謝謝這位老人,也就坐下了。<br>我也點了他正在吃的炸魚塊。很快我的炸魚餐就來了。四大塊魚堆在滿滿的米飯上,量太多吃不完。老人已經吃得差不多了,正在喝葡萄酒。我拿了一塊魚示意請他幫助。他看著我,沒有表示拒絕,我放進了他的盤子。<br>我用手機翻譯再次感謝他讓我一起和他用餐。他說我點的是套餐,還配有飲料和甜點。我就要了一瓶水,把甜點再次請他幫忙吃了。<br>我們開始聊天,我用手機翻譯勉強互相溝通了。他還等我吃完了,才一起起身, 然后握手道別。真的很紳士!<br><div><br></div> The restaurant on the second floor in the bus terminal was almost full. Three waitresses were busy serving guests. A waitress spoke to an old man who was eating at a small table. She re-arranged the table, and then motioned me to sit down. I have learned that there is a custom of sharing tables and food in northern Portugal, but I didn't expect to experience it here. I thanked the old man and sat down.<br>I ordered the fried fish filet, the same as he was eating. Soon my fried fish came. Four big pieces of fish were piled on a plateful of rice. It was too much. The old man had almost finished eating and was drinking his wine. I took a piece of fish and motioned for him to help. He looked at me and didn't refuse, so I put it on his plate.<br>I used the phone translator to thank him again for letting me eating with him. He told me that my order was a set, which also included the drink and a dessert. I asked for a bottle of water and requested his help again to finish the dessert.<br>We started to chat; the mobile phone translator app helped us communicate with each other. He waited until I finished my lunch before getting up. We shook hands and said goodbye. What a great gentleman!<br><div><br></div> 波爾圖是葡萄牙西北部的一座沿海城市。幾個世紀前就有人在這里定居了。它是歐洲最古老的城市之一。<div><br>Porto is a coastal city in the northwestern Portugal. There were settlements here in centuries ago. The city is one of the oldest cities in Europe.<br><div><br></div></div> 第二天早上我先去了證券交易所大樓,大樓前面的廣場樹立著航海家亨利王子的雕像。參觀證券交易所需要預約。我訂了明天中午的時間再回來。<div><br>The next morning, I first went to the stock exchange, Palácio da Bolsa. The statue of Prince Henry, the Navigator, stood in the square in front of the building. Advance reservation is required, I booked an appointment at the noon time tomorrow.<br><div><br></div></div> 圣弗朗西斯科教堂位于交易所和杜羅河游客區之間,以其奢華的巴洛克風格內部裝飾和華麗的鍍金雕刻而聞名。教堂使用了超過 200 公斤的黃金。遺憾的是不讓拍照留念,參觀全程有保安監視。<div><br>Located between the Palácio da Bolsa and the Douro River tourist area, the Church of S?o Francisco is a famous church for its luxurious Baroque interior and ornate gilded carvings. The church used more than 200 kilograms of gold. Taking photos inside is strictly prohibited, the security personnels were posted throughout the visit.<br><div><br></div></div> 杜羅河邊的里貝拉廣場,葡萄牙語意為河畔廣場。河邊林立一排色彩鮮艷的房子是波爾圖的標志。眾多的房子里開設了餐廳,上面樓臺面對杜羅河。狹窄蜿蜒的鵝卵石街道上餐廳,咖啡館連接不斷。游客在這里欣賞著名的路易斯一世大橋和杜羅河的美景。<br><div><br></div> Pra?a da Ribeira, which means Riverside Square in Portuguese, is a busy area along the Douro River. The row of colourful houses is the renowned symbol of Porto. Many houses have restaurants and terraces facing the Douro River. The narrow winding cobblestone streets are lined with restaurants and cafes. Visitors here could relax and enjoy the beautiful view of the famous Luis I Bridge and the Douro River.<div><br></div> 里貝拉區是城市的歷史中心,被聯合國教科文組織指定為世界遺產。自中世紀以來一直是商業和制造業活動的中心。從那時起,里貝拉廣場上就有許多商店,出售魚、面包、肉類和其他商品。目前已經完全是游客中心。<br><div><br></div> The Ribeira district is the historic centre of the city, designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. There were many shops selling fish, bread, meat and other goods since the Middle Ages. Today, it is entirely a tourist centre.<div><br></div> 從河邊的狹窄的小路可以通向上城區的歷史中心。波爾圖人對每天這樣上山下山習以為常。<div><br>There narrow alleyways lead to the historic centre of the upper city. The people in Porto are used to going up and down the stairs every day.<br><div><br></div></div> 真理圣母禮拜堂建于十七世紀,是圣地亞哥朝圣之路的驛站。她為經過波爾圖的朝圣者提供食宿。<div><br>The Chapel of Nossa Senhora das Verdades was built in the 17th century as a Welcome Centre for the pilgrims of the Camino de Santiago. It provided accommodation for pilgrims passing through Porto.<br><div><br></div></div> 波爾圖大教堂 位于城市最高的山丘上,是波爾圖的地標建筑。從大教堂前的要塞廣場可以欣賞到整個城市和杜羅河流的壯麗景色。大教堂內部是美麗的哥特式風格。連接大教堂旁邊是一座修道院。修道院里有安東尼奧·維塔爾繪制的藍白色瓷磚墻板。<div><br></div> The Porto Cathedral is located on the highest hill in the city and is a landmark of Porto. From the Terriero da Se Fortress Square in front of the cathedral, you can enjoy a magnificent view of the entire city and the Douro River. The interior of the cathedral is a beautiful Gothic style. Attached to the cathedral is a monastery. The monastery has blue and white tile wall panels painted by António Vital.<div><br></div> 路易斯一世大橋是波爾圖杜羅河上最著名的拱橋。這座橋梁長 400 米,由古斯塔夫·埃菲爾(埃菲爾鐵塔的設計者)的合伙人設計。橋的下半部供機動車通行,上半部供地鐵通行,兩邊是步行通道。<br><div><br></div> The Dom Luis I Bridge is the most famous arch bridge over the Douro River in Porto. The 400-meter-long bridge was designed by a partner of Gustave Eiffel (who designed the Eiffel Tower). The lower level of the bridge is for cars, the upper level for the metro, and the pedestrian walkways on both sides.<div><br></div> 波特酒是葡萄牙最著名的出口產品之一,以波爾圖命名。通過路易斯一世大橋可以到達匯聚所有著名酒窖的加亞新城。這次的行程我不夠時間去到那里,希望今后有機會去看。<div><br>Port wine is one of Portugal’s most famous exports, named after Porto. Vila Nova de Gaia, where all the famous wine cellars are, can be reached via the Dom Luis I Bridge. I didn’t have enough time on this trip, but I hope to have a chance to see it in the future.<br><div><br></div></div> 在市區中心快餐店點了豬肉絲漢堡包,我坐在店外面的一張小桌子,休息一下和享受美好的天氣。 這里的鴿子習慣和游客在一起,大概也是到了它們“午餐”的時間了。<br><br><br> I ordered a pulled pork hamburger at a fast-food restaurant in the city centre. I sat at a table outside, relaxing and enjoying the beautiful weather. The pigeons here are used to being with tourists, and it was perhaps their "lunch time" too.<div><br></div> 市中心的圣本篤火車站是葡萄牙最重要的火車站之一。也是波爾圖最著名的游覽地方之一,所以我也要必須來打卡。<br>在 19 世紀建造火車站之前,這里是一座修道院。車站大廳采用畫家豪爾赫·科拉索繪制的瓷磚畫。他以美麗藍白色的瓷磚描述葡萄牙北部的歷史。<br><div><br></div> The S?o Bento train station in the city centre is one of the most important train stations in Portugal. It is also one of the most famous places to visit in Porto, so I came to check it out.<br>The train station was built on a monastery in the 19th century. The station hall features tile paintings by the painter Jorge Cola?o. The beautiful blue and white tiles describe the history of northern Portugal.&nbsp;<br><div><br></div> 幾個世紀以來沙丁魚一直是葡萄牙人的主食,是他們古老捕魚傳統的重要組成部分,也是他們文化不可分割的一部分。沙丁魚曾被認為是“窮人的食物“。他們最重要的傳統之一是慶祝圣安東尼,他是一位方濟各會修士,也是窮人的忠實守護神。葡萄牙人每年六月都會慶祝里斯本的守護神,人們幾乎每天都吃沙丁魚。&nbsp;<div><br></div> Sardines have been a staple of the Portuguese diet for centuries, a vital part of their ancient fishing traditions, and an integral part of their culture. Sardines were once considered as the "poor man's food.” One of their most important traditions is the celebration of Saint Anthony, a Franciscan friar and a dedicated patron of the poor. The Portuguese celebrate Lisbon’s Patron Saint every June, and people eat sardines almost daily.&nbsp;<div><br></div> 這家沙丁魚專賣店里成列著幾十種包裝的沙丁魚罐頭,琳瑯滿目。我問了店員哪一種比較好。他說罐頭里面的魚都一樣,僅僅是包裝不同!他倒是還挺實在的。<div><br><div>This sardine specialty store has dozens of different cans of sardines on display. I asked the clerk which one is better. He said that the fish in the cans are all the same, only the packaging is different! He's quite honest.</div><div><br></div></div> 我在博豪市場倒是很有收獲,買了好幾罐不同口味,不同牌子的沙丁魚罐頭。<div><br>I had a lot of fun at Mercado do Bolh?o, where I bought a few canned sardines of different flavours and different brands.<br><div><br></div></div> 我在預約的時間到了證券交易所宮。波爾圖的證券交易所大樓是一座非常重要的歷史古跡。這棟十九世紀的建筑以前是一個股票市場,是為了吸引潛在的歐洲投資者而建造的。參觀需要跟隨導游走。<br><br> I arrived at the Palacio de Bolsa at the scheduled time. The Palacio de Bolsa in Porto is a very important historical monument. This 19th century building was previously a stock market and was built to attract potential European investors. The visitors were arranged into groups, and each group led by a tour guide.&nbsp;<div><br></div> 宮殿中阿拉伯房間的金絲裝飾風格華麗突特,是證券交易所展覽館里的特別亮點。<div><br><div>The Arabian rooms in the palace are enormously decorated with the gold threads, which is the highlight of the Palacio de Bolsa’s exhibition hall.<br></div><div><br></div></div> 這兩天幾次經過一個雕刻塑像,我記下了她的位置。下午特地過來看。原來這里是波爾圖區的司法法院,門前的塑像名為正義雕像。<br><br> I passed by a sculpture several times in the past two days. I noted down its location and came to see it in the afternoon. The location turned out to be the Porto District Court of Justice, and the statue in front of the door is the Statue of Justice.<div><br></div> 司法部里正在舉辦“沖突的藝術“展覽,可以免費參觀。法院畢竟不是展覽館,進去安檢要嚴格得多了。 <br><br>The Ministry of Justice was holding an "Art of Conflict" exhibition, which was free to visit. After all, the Ministry of Justice is not a public area, and the security check is much more stricter.<br><div><br></div> “那些不知不覺中正在拯救世界的人“<br><br>“Those who are saving the world without knowing it”<br><div><br></div> 正義者, 作者:霍爾格·路易斯·博爾赫斯<br><br>一個按照伏爾泰的意愿耕種花園的人。<br>一個感謝音樂存在的人。<br>一個樂于追溯詞源的人。<br>兩個工人在南方的一家咖啡館里默默地下棋。<br>一個陶瓷工在思考一種顏色和一種形式。<br>一個印刷工把這頁排版得很好,盡管他可能自己不喜歡。<br>一個女人和一個男人,讀著某個篇章的最后三行詩。<br>一個撫摸著一只熟睡動物的人。<br>一個為對他犯下的過錯辯解,或希望的人。<br>一個感謝史蒂文森的存在的人。<br>一個希望別人是對的的人。<br>這些人不知不覺地在拯救世界。 <br><br>The JUST by Horge Luis Borges<br><br>A man who cultivates his garden, as Voltaire wished.<br>He who is grateful for the existence of music.<br>He who takes pleasure in tracing an etymology.<br>Two workmen playing, in a cafe in the South, a silent game of chess. <br>The potter, contemplating a color and a form.<br>The typographer who sets this page well, though it may not please him. <br>A woman and a man, who read the last tercets of a certain canto.<br>He who strokes a sleeping animal.<br>He who justifies, or wishes to, a wrong done to him. <br>He who is grateful for the existence of Stevenson.<br>He who prefers others to be right.<br>These people, unaware, are saving the world.<br><div><br></div> 沖突博物館<br><br>“一次獨特的體驗,旨在挑戰社會與沖突的關系以及解決沖突的法律體系。<div><br>要告知...<br>沖突如何成為社會生活中不可避免的因素,當它發生時,以及各種解決機制。</div><div><br>要質疑...<br>對法律體系及其參與者的看法。</div><div><br>要轉變…<br>在社會與法律體系之間,增強人們對司法體系的信任。”<br></div> Museum of Conflict<br>A unique experience designed to challenge society's relationship with conflict and the legal system that exists to solve it. <br><br>To inform...<br>on how conflict is an unavoidable element of the life in society, when it occurs, and the various solution mechanisms.<br><br>To question...<br>the perception of what is the legal system and its actors.<br><br>To transform...<br>between the society and its legal systems, promoting trust in the judicial system.<br><div><br></div> 在戈麥斯·特謝拉廣場上,有兩座教堂緊挨著,左邊是 17 世紀的加爾默羅會教堂,右邊是卡爾莫教堂。兩座教堂之間是波爾圖最小的房子,寬度只有一米多。這座小而窄的房子之所以建造,是因為人們過去常說教堂不應該是鄰居。<div><br></div> In the Gomes Teixeira Square, there are two churches next to each other, the 17th century Carmelite Church on the left and the Carmo Church on the right. Between the two churches is the smallest house in Porto, with a width of just over one meter. This small and narrow house was built because people used to say that churches should not be neighbours.<div><br></div> 波爾圖大學<br>University of Porto<br><div><br></div> 在波爾圖大學的圖書館里有幾個圖片展。<div><br>其中一個主題為“穿過陌生的天空”,紀念兩名葡萄牙飛行員一次空中探險100周年的圖片吸引了我。<br><br>“一次穿越奇異天空的旅程<br>對于飛行員來說,沒有國界。我們的世界就是天空。犧牲精神高于一切情感。一項航空壯舉,無論探險者來自哪個國家,總會在那些懂得飛行的大家庭中激起興奮之情。”<div><br><br></div></div> There were several photo exhibitions in the library of the University of Porto.<div>&nbsp; <br>One of them, titled "Through strange skies", attracted my attention with the pictures commemorating the 100th anniversary of an aerial expedition by two Portuguese pilots.<br><br>“A journey through the strange sky<br>For aviators there are no borders. Our world is the sky. The spirit of sacrifice prevails above all other feelings, and an aeronautical feat, whatever the nationality of those who perform it, always makes the large family of those who know what to fly vibrate.”<br><div><br></div></div> 當年報紙標題:”返回的飛行員:對未來的興奮和信心“。作為一個經常坐飛機的我被他們的英雄壯舉而震撼:<div><br>一百年前,在1924 年4月7日由兩名葡萄牙飛行員薩爾門托·德·貝雷斯和布里托·派斯首次從葡萄牙空中穿越經歐洲、北非洲和亞洲歷時了兩個月十三天,經過23個地方的起降,完成了 16,760 公里(10,414 英里)行程,于6月20日到達澳門。總共飛行了 117 小時、41 分鐘。這是一個以生死搏斗完成的空中探險故事。飛行員用肉眼識別飛行航向,把看到的地方與仍然不完整和有缺陷的地圖上的標記進行比較。當飛機前方突然出現地圖上沒有提及的山脈時,他們迅速改變飛機航線,在大氣渦旋的氣流中不受控制地升起,在巨大氣流下突然顛簸下降,或者在沒有機場的地方緊急迫降。這是第一次重大的國際飛行旅程,這次探險成為未來環球飛行的先河。二位飛行員他們因此被譽為葡萄牙的民族英雄。<br></div><div><br></div> Newspaper headline at the time:<br>"Returning pilots: Excitement and confidence in the future." As a frequent flyer, I was struck by their heroic stories:<br><br>One hundred years ago, on April 7, 1924, two Portuguese pilots, Sarmento de Beires and Brito Pais, flew from Portugal for the first time through Europe, North Africa, and Asia. It took two months and thirteen days, with stopovers in 23 places, to complete a journey of 16,760 kilometres (10,414 miles), arriving in Macau on June 20. The total flight time was 117 hours and 41 minutes. It is a story of an aerial adventure completed with a life-and-death struggle. The pilots identified their orientation with their naked eyes, comparing the places they saw with the markings on the still incomplete and flawed maps. When a mountain range that was not mentioned on the map suddenly appeared in front of the plane, they quickly changed the plane's route. Their plane rose uncontrollably in the air currents of the atmospheric vortex, suddenly descended in the turbulent under the huge air currents, or made an emergency landing in a place without an airport. This was the first major international flight journey and became a precedent for future round-the-world flights. They were hailed as national heroes in Portugal.<br> 另一個畫展,“驚愕“<div><br>“選擇、品味、語言與收藏行為直接相關。這些與好奇心、知識、不安、直覺等聯系在一起。“<br></div><div><br></div> Another exhibition, Surprise (Espanto)<div><br>“Choice, taste, language are directly related to the act of collecting. These are linked to curiosity, knowledge, restlessness, intuition, etc.”<br></div><div><br></div> 索亞雷斯多斯雷斯國家博物館已有兩百多年歷史,是葡萄牙最古老的公共博物館,也是波爾圖最著名的博物館。博物館的藏品包括版畫、古董、陶瓷和玻璃制品。<br><br> The Soares dos Reis National Museum is more than 200 years old. It is the oldest public museum in Portugal and the most famous museum in Porto. The museum's collection features include prints, antiques, ceramics and glassware.<div><br></div> 博物館其中一些最宏偉的作品是由 1847 年出生的葡萄牙雕塑家安東尼奧·索亞雷斯·多斯·雷斯創作的。博物館在獲得他的作品時以這位藝術家的名字命名。<div><br>Some of the most majestic works were created by Antonio Soares dos Reis, a Portuguese sculptor born in 1847. The museum was named after the artist when it acquired his work.<br></div><div><br></div> 明天將去波爾圖南面50公里的阿威羅一日游。<div><br>Tomorrow’s schedule would be a day trip to Aveiro, a small city 50 kilometres south of Porto.<br></div><div><br></div>
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