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五個窟的風景

五個窟的風景

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　　選擇去柬埔寨旅游，大多數中國旅客得益于中柬兩國人民近代十分友好、政府之間亦大力推動一帶一路的大政方針得到切實的實施。

當然，普通老百姓并不會考慮那么多國際問題，僅僅是為滿足親眼目睹一回世界四大遺存建筑奇跡的吳哥窟這個探究心理的推動使然。

其實，柬埔寨不僅僅只有吳哥窟，而且還有湄公河和洞薩里湖!

打開中國古文獻《后漢書》，今天的柬埔寨這個地區曾被我們稱呼為一個奇怪的名字——“究不事”。而在《隋書》中，這個名稱則被更改為“真臘”。到了宋代，更是稱其為“真里富”。到了元朝又稱“甘勃智”，以及《明史》中的“甘武者”，都是這個國家。到了萬歷年后，才正式稱其為柬埔寨。

這些稱呼的產生，可能與我們的祖先對“爪哇”這個十分遙遠的國度最初的音譯稱呼有關?，F在說來，當年逃荒或者逃難出去的華僑，大都是潮汕一帶的“南蠻子”（他們也有被騙被賣到美國去當做奴隸而被稱作“豬仔”），他們說話口音和北方人那是大大的不同，當時亦沒有推廣發音統一的“普通話”，加之南洋當地土著部落的口音那更是千奇百怪，能將最初兩個字的當地名稱最終在捎回的路途變成三字，且煞有介事地上告朝廷，已經是件很不容易的事情呢!

至今，在當地做導游的年輕華僑后裔，竟然說“吳哥窟”的名稱由來，也是他們祖先的發明創造，這亦不足為怪。用他們的話說，大小吳哥的皇城正面大門正是有“五個門窟窿”嘛!

其實，吳哥不但遺存有大小吳哥這些大型皇城遺址，還有巴肯寺，群象臺，巴戎寺等等一些至今還未被一般游客熟知的許多同時代的古建群。進了吳哥市，一路的無名遺址，那更是俯首皆是。

如此說來，便出現了一個疑問，為什么單單在柬埔寨的暹粒省會留下如此恢宏的人類文明遺址群落呢？而且，如此浩大的工程當時又都是啥人修造的呢？

有這個疑問的人肯定不少，但卻不好回答。可以這么說，能說清楚印度泰姬陵、埃及金字塔、中國萬里長城是何人修造這些千古之謎的人，當代肯定是大有人在，其觀點卻不一定很統一罷了!

老牛一波人坐著木船游過浩渺的洞薩里湖后，至少是明白了一點最為淺顯的認知，那就是這片被湄公河千百年沖積形成的肥沃平原，從古到今不但保持有廣袤的原始森林，而且生長著人類賴以生存的稻米啊!

柬埔寨就地域物產而言，完全可以配稱做魚米之鄉!

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吳哥日出

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小吳哥皇宮正門內拍

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　　不過，中國各朝有關真臘國的記載的資料中，確有一件見諸文字的大說叨。

故事是這樣的——元朝有一個儒生名叫周達觀，他曾在這個國家居住一年多。歸國后寫下《真臘風土記》一書，成為當代文明社會對中南半島高棉古國的吳哥王朝唯一的系統性文字記錄。

當時，這個中國儒生當然不是去旅游觀光的，而是受命去“懷柔遠夷”，說服真臘國主向元廷進貢的使臣。

后來，受戰爭和瘟疫影響，真臘遷都金邊，一度十分鼎盛的南部都城吳哥成為“廢都”，漸漸消失在密林中。直到一百五十多年前，一位法國生物學家兼作家讀到《真臘風土記》法文譯本后，按圖索驥，密林中的吳哥古城才重見天日。彼時，吳哥窟已經在密林中沉寂了將近六百年了。

《真臘風土記》里說，當地人“見唐人頗加敬畏”。

這句話說的真沒錯。在真臘古國，“唐人”備受禮遇與“唐貨”特別受歡迎密不可分。當時，一個定居真臘的中國水手不管去到哪兒，都會發現自己被來自故鄉的“唐貨”包圍，無論是王公貴族喜用的金銀裝飾、名貴瓷器、漆器、紙張（紙在當時確實是極寶貴的），還是民間廣為使用的麻布、黃草、布傘、鐵鍋、銅盤、桐油、木梳，甚至針頭線腦，大多來自中國，至于日常交易用的銅錢，更是如假包換的“中國造” !

東南半島許多部落國家與中國大陸比鄰，此地歷代遷居的華僑后裔確不在少數。由于高棉人曾推翻過宗主國扶南，先后征戰并大敗暹羅、寮國，占據安南南部，使其影響到達南中國的西雙版納。所以，吳哥王國的瓷器燒制、絲綢紡織、木石雕刻、民族衣者等，無一不顯現出大唐朝的印痕。

同時，來自古印度的文明亦在此交匯，無論民族信仰還是文字衍化，所留之物也歷歷在目。

這便是人類社會的原本模樣。

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雕像

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刻在石杵上的梵文

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華麗的裝飾

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看看當年宮女的服飾，古代高棉女性是不穿上衣的哦!

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五頭蛇

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窟內雕石

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當地人們傳說中的獨臂英雄

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走出金邊

金邊，是眼下的柬埔寨王國首都。

這個城市的名字，和老牛年齡相仿且已經步入老年的這茬中國人并不陌生。

說一個笑話吧。

上個世紀七十年代，一群中國北方的公社社員在地頭念報紙，一個文盲隊長對當日一條《西哈努克親王八日到京》的新聞題目是這么念的——“西哈努克親，王八日到京。姬鵬，飛到機場迎接~”

文革當年，中國北方打麥場上放電影前的《新聞簡報》，鏡頭最多的外賓便是這位避難北京的西哈努克親王和他漂亮夫人莫尼克公主（此美人是法國籍）! 記得其身后還跟著一個歪脖子賓奴親王。當時的報紙上，亦常常出現這個國家的一些人物的大名，諸如喬森潘、朗諾、施里瑪達、山玉成，后來還有了胡山林、洪森等……

這一切足以說明，中國老百姓對柬埔寨這個國家并不陌生。

這是一個多災多難的小國家。

法國殖民軍占領東南半島時期，做亡國奴的他們日子可想而知。后來，美國人來了，在洞薩里湖畔密林丟下一地的地雷走了。接著，一場旨在推翻帝制的叛亂讓金邊陷于戰火……接著，就是那場自稱“紅色高棉”的“民主柬埔寨”的統治時代，二百萬平民百姓失去了性命?，F在的金邊，已經關閉了“萬人坑”等一些難以令人目睹的“景點”，然而，剛剛過去的昨天，他們怎能忘記啊 !直到那個左顧而言他的鄰國，以解放勞苦民眾的名義，暗地里卻準備建立“大印度支那聯邦”而借機入侵……

沿著中國援建的6號公路駛出金邊，這條被當地人稱為“高樹公路”的國道，經歷第一個磅湛省的路旁，果真是古樹參天。不過，路途上，我們卻看到了許多令人揪心的畫面——衣著襤褸的兒童和破敗不堪的鐵皮房!

這跟那些剛剛參觀過的富麗堂皇的王宮比較起來，這個國度的貧富差別原來竟如此之大!讓我們這些游客不禁聯想到上個世紀中葉之后滿目瘡痍、百廢待興的中國大地。

這兒目前還沒有火車、沒有公交，更不要說地鐵、動車了。一路上，我們甚至沒看到過一輛當地老百姓出行乘坐的公交車。路過村鎮，倒是看見行走著不少日本人造的小型節油的摩托。因為當地用電需要從泰國進口，普通城鎮生活用電電費每度高達人民幣二元以上，看似綠色環保價格低廉的電瓶車，在最低工資約一千四百元人民幣的柬埔寨，卻變成了十分燒錢的出行工具。

還有，那些路邊小攤的土著特色食物，真的讓人恍如隔世。

?

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　　柬埔寨是一個佛教國家，皇宮也建有皇家寺院，這是金邊城沿街化緣的僧人。

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　　金邊的城市故事。

這位女神，在河里撈到一根木頭，里邊藏匿有四尊金佛，最后被安置在這個城市的四方，于是，有了這個城市。

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金邊王宮

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勝利廣場聳立的西哈努克雕像，后邊是獨立紀念碑。

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皇家用品

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　　拿破侖蓋在柬埔寨國王大殿前的辦公樓，誰看了都覺得很刺眼，顯得不倫不類?？墒牵@確是歷史遺跡。拿破侖萬萬想不到，這座被精心修繕的建筑，會成為他永遠的恥辱!

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金邊王宮內景

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六號公路旁的古樹

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向游客討錢的姐弟

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　　當地小販推銷的特色吃食——油炸螞蚱，蜘蛛，蝎子，蟑螂，蟋蟀，以及不知名的甲蟲和蟲蛹……

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疑似地螻蛄

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蟋蟀

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蝎子，比常見的要大許多。

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青蛙

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面對同種族的旅客流露出的疑惑眼神

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蟑螂

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不知名字的甲蟲

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蟬蛹

","text_del":0,"type":1,"video_del":0,"video_thumbnail_del":0,"vote_del":0,"watermark":"?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvMzA3MjEyOTIvb3JpZ2luOTk2MzdmNTBiMWI0Nzk5NDRiNzUzMGRjMWRhNmRiYWVfX2pwZy5oZWlj/nickname/5YWz5Lit54mb4piF5L2c5Z2K/userid/MzA3MjEyOTI=/sign/09a9113f84c60dd74552969d8e6b24f1"},{"audio_del":0,"audio_music_id":0,"ext":{"unique_id":"4a2fb85c3ecb939e1a77a16e57c3fca9"},"img_del":0,"img_signed":[],"is_template_subtitle":false,"location_del":0,"sectionPublished":true,"sell_del":0,"source":0,"subtitle_state":0,"text":"

　　柬埔寨沒有工業，不生產農藥化肥，出產的大米產量低，但十分好吃!

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巨型大理石雕刻

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哦，五個窟

前幾年，老牛親自爬過北京未經修繕的箭扣長城，那種震撼的感覺，在看到吳哥窟的第一眼，便又一次被觸動到了。

這種石頭壘成的古城樓閣，因了被熱帶雨林封閉了整整六百年，雖室內裝幀的名貴木質隔斷已經蕩然無存，但石質窗欞卻依然完好如初。

可以聯想，在棄城出走的當年，占領者和當地平民對其破壞尚在其次，二次發現后那些殖民侵略者一定做過大量挖掘破壞，而最為觸目驚心的應當是大自然的風雨侵蝕了。一些參天古樹居然生長到了樓頂石縫，盤根錯節的樹根掀翻了很多重達十噸的巨石!

站在巴肯山大廟遠望四周，除過大小吳哥和近處不知名的遺址的塔尖外，滿目都郁郁蔥蔥的熱帶雨林，讓人真的感到了某種不可言狀的壓抑。

可以說，吳哥遺址的發掘還遠遠沒有完成，也永遠不會完成。一路看到的那些大大小小的坍塌石陣，依然精心地掩藏著許許多多不為現代人知的歷史秘密。

面對這些同是古人的勞動創造，老牛不禁聯想，當年的西京大明宮的木制樓宇里，有沒有來自這些南亞雨林中的紫檀花梨呢？

這些火山巨石鑿就的石材，一塊塊都沒有多余的成分，據信是在一百公里外鑿好運來的，那些鑲嵌在城墻內壁和樓宇中間的花崗巖精致石刻，又是從哪兒運來的呢？還有，這些能工巧匠的身份究竟是俘虜還是奴隸，擬或還有來自更遠大陸聘請的工程師？

看到眼前的這一切神話般的真實存在，每個人除產生出一種無力的驚嘆外，只余無盡的沉思了。

我們時常為自己祖先遺留的豐厚文化遺產而驕傲不已，面對同是祖先的域外文明，應當有怎樣的認知才是？

不過，這個國家剛剛卸任給自己兒子的國家總理洪森，的的確確是一位地地道道的華裔，據信是爺爺手上自潮汕來到這兒的。就像鄰居新加坡的總理是廣東人，把總理讓給自己的兒子一樣!漢文化圈這種朝代世襲現象，為啥到處都見怪不怪？

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　　這是小吳哥護城河石橋上的石獅。一左一右，一公一母。據導游說，吳哥遺址的女性宮殿或陵寢立的石獅都是雄性的，親王和男性貴族的宮殿陵寢的獅子都是雌性的，這個說法老牛無法去驗證真偽，但這一對卻絕對是一公一母。

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　　這頭肯定是公的。另一個羞于拍攝，留給讀者自己去聯想。

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壁畫

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隨處可見的石雕

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沉思還是驚訝

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每副石刻局部都有故事

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坍塌的巨石隨處可見

","text_del":0,"type":1,"video_del":0,"video_thumbnail_del":0,"vote_del":0,"watermark":"?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvMzA3MjEyOTIvb3JpZ2luOWMxNTljZWY4MDA1NzI1ZmMwYzJkN2JiNzkyODk0YTlfX2pwZy5oZWlj/nickname/5YWz5Lit54mb4piF5L2c5Z2K/userid/MzA3MjEyOTI=/sign/09a9113f84c60dd74552969d8e6b24f1"},{"audio_del":0,"audio_music_id":0,"ext":{"unique_id":"fc0275da2a8be0fcadc882a059a47047"},"img_del":0,"img_height":4056,"img_size":1310,"img_url":"https://ss-mpvolc.meipian.me/users/30721292/origin4e3f4236e25ffeff751dc87dea55b6b5__jpg.heic","img_width":1872,"is_origin":true,"is_template_subtitle":false,"location_del":0,"sectionPublished":true,"sell_del":0,"source":0,"subtitle_state":0,"text":"

吳哥國王行宮一隅

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湄公河的洞薩里

洞薩里湖是湄公河流域最大的淡水湖，其水域面積完全可以上得了世界十大淡水湖名錄。

湄公河的上游在中國境內稱瀾滄江，到了金邊分為注入洞薩里湖的洞薩里河和出境后的湄南河。

這是一條被中南半島許多民族稱為母親的河流。我們去的那幾天，當地正在舉行一個紀念性質的河母節，國家元首帶著通信保障車到了吳哥市與民同樂，使得那兩天周圍的手機信號都變得相當的好用。

洞薩里湖同時又是一個很奇特的內陸湖泊。出入僅一條河道。柬埔寨沒有春夏秋冬，一年內只有旱季和雨季。旱季到了，湄公河水位下降，湖水便沿著進水河道反向流向湄公河；到了雨季，上游的洪水使得水位暴漲，河道又轉而開始正向注水，洞薩里湖的水位一下子漲到原來的十多米，以至淹沒了兩岸的紅樹林。住在水上打魚為生的湖上人家，便用船拖著浮在湖面的房屋棲住到水淺的紅樹林的樹頂上，直到水位下降，又回到湖中打魚。

這么說來，當年的部族大遷徙，吳哥人一定是在旱季的某一天，沿著河道順水走向金邊的。

據了解，眼下的這些湖上人家，大約由三大成分構成。一是當地遺留的古老的水上部落，二是被越南驅趕來的華裔人群，第三還有一些波爾布特時期遺留下來不愿被政府詔安的叢林戰士。這些人，許多家庭都沒有身份證，甚至沒有國籍，就這么自生自滅地靠著這片浩渺的湖水謀生。

在6號公路旁的橡膠林小憩，導游曾指著不遠處的叢林茅廬告知我們，他們是柬埔寨的叢林人。這是以前那些跟著波爾布特在叢林中打游擊的人，受詔安后被分配在這些曾經的不毛之地安家的。其社區內至今還存在一夫多妻、草菅人命等現象，其無法無天的混亂情節，聽著都讓人毛骨悚然。

在洞薩里湖邊，我們一行繳納過額外的一筆不菲的“預加項目”費用后，乘坐古老的木殼船航行半個小時后，近距離參觀了這些湖上人家的衣食住行。

這些建用舊油桶和木柴做浮塢的鐵皮和石棉瓦簡易房，廚房小到只有一兩平米，有的家戶居然還養著雞鴨貓狗，站在船幫上望著我們搖尾巴。其學校的籃球場，只是一個搬走小桌后不足三十平米的大“房子”而已!

這兒沒有醫院，卻有小超市。貨物幾乎都是我們八十年代記憶中的物件，而且還寥寥無幾，門可羅雀。

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湄公河兩岸的原始紅樹林

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　　這個大人是游客，小家伙是幫父親干活的六歲篙手。他的副業是行船中主動為大媽阿姨們捏肩捶背討點小錢。

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洞薩里湖的湖上人家

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岸邊高腳屋

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湄公河的沉香木

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金邊的湄公河上，可以看見皇宮的尖頂。

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姐妹廟的神樂演奏

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湖上人家

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徜徉在湄公河上看到的金邊皇宮

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　　再次回到金邊，將要打道回府的老牛一直在想，我們這些無所事事的游客，不遠千里來到這里，究竟一個個都揣著怎樣可鄙的想法呢？看了一場花錢的熱鬧？還是暗自得意年輕那陣沒能被逼上過送命的戰場？抑或，租個年輕的臨時“妻子”順便向她們傳播一番當代文明？

總之，想到這些，老牛一整天都心情不好。當天夜晚，已經交過錢的老牛，自愿取消了包含在這次旅游項目中的柬式按摩體驗。不為別的，因為我聽說那一處按摩的地方，恰恰緊挨著的盡都是一些為歐美人租妻服務的門店!

老牛一生做人雖夠不上清高，但卻一丁點都不猥瑣 ! 雖苦于手無縛雞之力、不能解救那些可憐的姐妹們出水火，但我完全可以選擇不去做羞辱他們的事情么!


【此文為游記《真臘掠影》的草稿，由于旅居三亞，無法做電腦校對，肯定有許多錯訛之處，請見諒】

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　　選擇去柬埔寨旅游，大多數中國旅客得益于中柬兩國人民近代十分友好、政府之間亦大力推動一帶一路的大政方針得到切實的實施。

當然，普通老百姓并不會考慮那么多國際問題，僅僅是為滿足親眼目睹一回世界四大遺存建筑奇跡的吳哥窟這個探究心理的推動使然。

其實，柬埔寨不僅僅只有吳哥窟，而且還有湄公河和洞薩里湖!

打開中國古文獻《后漢書》，今天的柬埔寨這個地區曾被我們稱呼為一個奇怪的名字——“究不事”。而在《隋書》中，這個名稱則被更改為“真臘”。到了宋代，更是稱其為“真里富”。到了元朝又稱“甘勃智”，以及《明史》中的“甘武者”，都是這個國家。到了萬歷年后，才正式稱其為柬埔寨。

這些稱呼的產生，可能與我們的祖先對“爪哇”這個十分遙遠的國度最初的音譯稱呼有關。現在說來，當年逃荒或者逃難出去的華僑，大都是潮汕一帶的“南蠻子”（他們也有被騙被賣到美國去當做奴隸而被稱作“豬仔”），他們說話口音和北方人那是大大的不同，當時亦沒有推廣發音統一的“普通話”，加之南洋當地土著部落的口音那更是千奇百怪，能將最初兩個字的當地名稱最終在捎回的路途變成三字，且煞有介事地上告朝廷，已經是件很不容易的事情呢!

至今，在當地做導游的年輕華僑后裔，竟然說“吳哥窟”的名稱由來，也是他們祖先的發明創造，這亦不足為怪。用他們的話說，大小吳哥的皇城正面大門正是有“五個門窟窿”嘛!

其實，吳哥不但遺存有大小吳哥這些大型皇城遺址，還有巴肯寺，群象臺，巴戎寺等等一些至今還未被一般游客熟知的許多同時代的古建群。進了吳哥市，一路的無名遺址，那更是俯首皆是。

如此說來，便出現了一個疑問，為什么單單在柬埔寨的暹粒省會留下如此恢宏的人類文明遺址群落呢？而且，如此浩大的工程當時又都是啥人修造的呢？

有這個疑問的人肯定不少，但卻不好回答?？梢赃@么說，能說清楚印度泰姬陵、埃及金字塔、中國萬里長城是何人修造這些千古之謎的人，當代肯定是大有人在，其觀點卻不一定很統一罷了!

老牛一波人坐著木船游過浩渺的洞薩里湖后，至少是明白了一點最為淺顯的認知，那就是這片被湄公河千百年沖積形成的肥沃平原，從古到今不但保持有廣袤的原始森林，而且生長著人類賴以生存的稻米啊!

柬埔寨就地域物產而言，完全可以配稱做魚米之鄉!

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吳哥日出

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小吳哥皇宮正門內拍

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　　不過，中國各朝有關真臘國的記載的資料中，確有一件見諸文字的大說叨。

故事是這樣的——元朝有一個儒生名叫周達觀，他曾在這個國家居住一年多。歸國后寫下《真臘風土記》一書，成為當代文明社會對中南半島高棉古國的吳哥王朝唯一的系統性文字記錄。

當時，這個中國儒生當然不是去旅游觀光的，而是受命去“懷柔遠夷”，說服真臘國主向元廷進貢的使臣。

后來，受戰爭和瘟疫影響，真臘遷都金邊，一度十分鼎盛的南部都城吳哥成為“廢都”，漸漸消失在密林中。直到一百五十多年前，一位法國生物學家兼作家讀到《真臘風土記》法文譯本后，按圖索驥，密林中的吳哥古城才重見天日。彼時，吳哥窟已經在密林中沉寂了將近六百年了。

《真臘風土記》里說，當地人“見唐人頗加敬畏”。

這句話說的真沒錯。在真臘古國，“唐人”備受禮遇與“唐貨”特別受歡迎密不可分。當時，一個定居真臘的中國水手不管去到哪兒，都會發現自己被來自故鄉的“唐貨”包圍，無論是王公貴族喜用的金銀裝飾、名貴瓷器、漆器、紙張（紙在當時確實是極寶貴的），還是民間廣為使用的麻布、黃草、布傘、鐵鍋、銅盤、桐油、木梳，甚至針頭線腦，大多來自中國，至于日常交易用的銅錢，更是如假包換的“中國造” !

東南半島許多部落國家與中國大陸比鄰，此地歷代遷居的華僑后裔確不在少數。由于高棉人曾推翻過宗主國扶南，先后征戰并大敗暹羅、寮國，占據安南南部，使其影響到達南中國的西雙版納。所以，吳哥王國的瓷器燒制、絲綢紡織、木石雕刻、民族衣者等，無一不顯現出大唐朝的印痕。

同時，來自古印度的文明亦在此交匯，無論民族信仰還是文字衍化，所留之物也歷歷在目。

這便是人類社會的原本模樣。

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雕像

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刻在石杵上的梵文

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華麗的裝飾

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看看當年宮女的服飾，古代高棉女性是不穿上衣的哦!

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五頭蛇

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窟內雕石

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當地人們傳說中的獨臂英雄

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走出金邊

金邊，是眼下的柬埔寨王國首都。

這個城市的名字，和老牛年齡相仿且已經步入老年的這茬中國人并不陌生。

說一個笑話吧。

上個世紀七十年代，一群中國北方的公社社員在地頭念報紙，一個文盲隊長對當日一條《西哈努克親王八日到京》的新聞題目是這么念的——“西哈努克親，王八日到京。姬鵬，飛到機場迎接~”

文革當年，中國北方打麥場上放電影前的《新聞簡報》，鏡頭最多的外賓便是這位避難北京的西哈努克親王和他漂亮夫人莫尼克公主（此美人是法國籍）! 記得其身后還跟著一個歪脖子賓奴親王。當時的報紙上，亦常常出現這個國家的一些人物的大名，諸如喬森潘、朗諾、施里瑪達、山玉成，后來還有了胡山林、洪森等……

這一切足以說明，中國老百姓對柬埔寨這個國家并不陌生。

這是一個多災多難的小國家。

法國殖民軍占領東南半島時期，做亡國奴的他們日子可想而知。后來，美國人來了，在洞薩里湖畔密林丟下一地的地雷走了。接著，一場旨在推翻帝制的叛亂讓金邊陷于戰火……接著，就是那場自稱“紅色高棉”的“民主柬埔寨”的統治時代，二百萬平民百姓失去了性命。現在的金邊，已經關閉了“萬人坑”等一些難以令人目睹的“景點”，然而，剛剛過去的昨天，他們怎能忘記啊 !直到那個左顧而言他的鄰國，以解放勞苦民眾的名義，暗地里卻準備建立“大印度支那聯邦”而借機入侵……

沿著中國援建的6號公路駛出金邊，這條被當地人稱為“高樹公路”的國道，經歷第一個磅湛省的路旁，果真是古樹參天。不過，路途上，我們卻看到了許多令人揪心的畫面——衣著襤褸的兒童和破敗不堪的鐵皮房!

這跟那些剛剛參觀過的富麗堂皇的王宮比較起來，這個國度的貧富差別原來竟如此之大!讓我們這些游客不禁聯想到上個世紀中葉之后滿目瘡痍、百廢待興的中國大地。

這兒目前還沒有火車、沒有公交，更不要說地鐵、動車了。一路上，我們甚至沒看到過一輛當地老百姓出行乘坐的公交車。路過村鎮，倒是看見行走著不少日本人造的小型節油的摩托。因為當地用電需要從泰國進口，普通城鎮生活用電電費每度高達人民幣二元以上，看似綠色環保價格低廉的電瓶車，在最低工資約一千四百元人民幣的柬埔寨，卻變成了十分燒錢的出行工具。

還有，那些路邊小攤的土著特色食物，真的讓人恍如隔世。

?

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　　柬埔寨是一個佛教國家，皇宮也建有皇家寺院，這是金邊城沿街化緣的僧人。

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　　金邊的城市故事。

這位女神，在河里撈到一根木頭，里邊藏匿有四尊金佛，最后被安置在這個城市的四方，于是，有了這個城市。

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金邊王宮

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勝利廣場聳立的西哈努克雕像，后邊是獨立紀念碑。

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皇家用品

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　　拿破侖蓋在柬埔寨國王大殿前的辦公樓，誰看了都覺得很刺眼，顯得不倫不類?？墒?，這確是歷史遺跡。拿破侖萬萬想不到，這座被精心修繕的建筑，會成為他永遠的恥辱!

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金邊王宮內景

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六號公路旁的古樹

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向游客討錢的姐弟

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　　當地小販推銷的特色吃食——油炸螞蚱，蜘蛛，蝎子，蟑螂，蟋蟀，以及不知名的甲蟲和蟲蛹……

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疑似地螻蛄

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蟋蟀

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蝎子，比常見的要大許多。

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青蛙

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面對同種族的旅客流露出的疑惑眼神

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蟑螂

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不知名字的甲蟲

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蟬蛹

","text_del":0,"type":1,"video_del":0,"video_thumbnail_del":0,"vote_del":0,"watermark":"?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvMzA3MjEyOTIvb3JpZ2luOTk2MzdmNTBiMWI0Nzk5NDRiNzUzMGRjMWRhNmRiYWVfX2pwZy5oZWlj/nickname/5YWz5Lit54mb4piF5L2c5Z2K/userid/MzA3MjEyOTI=/sign/09a9113f84c60dd74552969d8e6b24f1"},{"audio_del":0,"audio_music_id":0,"ext":{"unique_id":"4a2fb85c3ecb939e1a77a16e57c3fca9"},"img_del":0,"img_signed":[],"is_template_subtitle":false,"location_del":0,"sectionPublished":true,"sell_del":0,"source":0,"subtitle_state":0,"text":"

　　柬埔寨沒有工業，不生產農藥化肥，出產的大米產量低，但十分好吃!

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巨型大理石雕刻

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哦，五個窟

前幾年，老牛親自爬過北京未經修繕的箭扣長城，那種震撼的感覺，在看到吳哥窟的第一眼，便又一次被觸動到了。

這種石頭壘成的古城樓閣，因了被熱帶雨林封閉了整整六百年，雖室內裝幀的名貴木質隔斷已經蕩然無存，但石質窗欞卻依然完好如初。

可以聯想，在棄城出走的當年，占領者和當地平民對其破壞尚在其次，二次發現后那些殖民侵略者一定做過大量挖掘破壞，而最為觸目驚心的應當是大自然的風雨侵蝕了。一些參天古樹居然生長到了樓頂石縫，盤根錯節的樹根掀翻了很多重達十噸的巨石!

站在巴肯山大廟遠望四周，除過大小吳哥和近處不知名的遺址的塔尖外，滿目都郁郁蔥蔥的熱帶雨林，讓人真的感到了某種不可言狀的壓抑。

可以說，吳哥遺址的發掘還遠遠沒有完成，也永遠不會完成。一路看到的那些大大小小的坍塌石陣，依然精心地掩藏著許許多多不為現代人知的歷史秘密。

面對這些同是古人的勞動創造，老牛不禁聯想，當年的西京大明宮的木制樓宇里，有沒有來自這些南亞雨林中的紫檀花梨呢？

這些火山巨石鑿就的石材，一塊塊都沒有多余的成分，據信是在一百公里外鑿好運來的，那些鑲嵌在城墻內壁和樓宇中間的花崗巖精致石刻，又是從哪兒運來的呢？還有，這些能工巧匠的身份究竟是俘虜還是奴隸，擬或還有來自更遠大陸聘請的工程師？

看到眼前的這一切神話般的真實存在，每個人除產生出一種無力的驚嘆外，只余無盡的沉思了。

我們時常為自己祖先遺留的豐厚文化遺產而驕傲不已，面對同是祖先的域外文明，應當有怎樣的認知才是？

不過，這個國家剛剛卸任給自己兒子的國家總理洪森，的的確確是一位地地道道的華裔，據信是爺爺手上自潮汕來到這兒的。就像鄰居新加坡的總理是廣東人，把總理讓給自己的兒子一樣!漢文化圈這種朝代世襲現象，為啥到處都見怪不怪？

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　　這是小吳哥護城河石橋上的石獅。一左一右，一公一母。據導游說，吳哥遺址的女性宮殿或陵寢立的石獅都是雄性的，親王和男性貴族的宮殿陵寢的獅子都是雌性的，這個說法老牛無法去驗證真偽，但這一對卻絕對是一公一母。

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　　這頭肯定是公的。另一個羞于拍攝，留給讀者自己去聯想。

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壁畫

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隨處可見的石雕

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沉思還是驚訝

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每副石刻局部都有故事

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坍塌的巨石隨處可見

","text_del":0,"type":1,"video_del":0,"video_thumbnail_del":0,"vote_del":0,"watermark":"?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvMzA3MjEyOTIvb3JpZ2luOWMxNTljZWY4MDA1NzI1ZmMwYzJkN2JiNzkyODk0YTlfX2pwZy5oZWlj/nickname/5YWz5Lit54mb4piF5L2c5Z2K/userid/MzA3MjEyOTI=/sign/09a9113f84c60dd74552969d8e6b24f1"},{"audio_del":0,"audio_music_id":0,"ext":{"unique_id":"fc0275da2a8be0fcadc882a059a47047"},"img_del":0,"img_height":4056,"img_size":1310,"img_url":"https://ss-mpvolc.meipian.me/users/30721292/origin4e3f4236e25ffeff751dc87dea55b6b5__jpg.heic","img_width":1872,"is_origin":true,"is_template_subtitle":false,"location_del":0,"sectionPublished":true,"sell_del":0,"source":0,"subtitle_state":0,"text":"

吳哥國王行宮一隅

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湄公河的洞薩里

洞薩里湖是湄公河流域最大的淡水湖，其水域面積完全可以上得了世界十大淡水湖名錄。

湄公河的上游在中國境內稱瀾滄江，到了金邊分為注入洞薩里湖的洞薩里河和出境后的湄南河。

這是一條被中南半島許多民族稱為母親的河流。我們去的那幾天，當地正在舉行一個紀念性質的河母節，國家元首帶著通信保障車到了吳哥市與民同樂，使得那兩天周圍的手機信號都變得相當的好用。

洞薩里湖同時又是一個很奇特的內陸湖泊。出入僅一條河道。柬埔寨沒有春夏秋冬，一年內只有旱季和雨季。旱季到了，湄公河水位下降，湖水便沿著進水河道反向流向湄公河；到了雨季，上游的洪水使得水位暴漲，河道又轉而開始正向注水，洞薩里湖的水位一下子漲到原來的十多米，以至淹沒了兩岸的紅樹林。住在水上打魚為生的湖上人家，便用船拖著浮在湖面的房屋棲住到水淺的紅樹林的樹頂上，直到水位下降，又回到湖中打魚。

這么說來，當年的部族大遷徙，吳哥人一定是在旱季的某一天，沿著河道順水走向金邊的。

據了解，眼下的這些湖上人家，大約由三大成分構成。一是當地遺留的古老的水上部落，二是被越南驅趕來的華裔人群，第三還有一些波爾布特時期遺留下來不愿被政府詔安的叢林戰士。這些人，許多家庭都沒有身份證，甚至沒有國籍，就這么自生自滅地靠著這片浩渺的湖水謀生。

在6號公路旁的橡膠林小憩，導游曾指著不遠處的叢林茅廬告知我們，他們是柬埔寨的叢林人。這是以前那些跟著波爾布特在叢林中打游擊的人，受詔安后被分配在這些曾經的不毛之地安家的。其社區內至今還存在一夫多妻、草菅人命等現象，其無法無天的混亂情節，聽著都讓人毛骨悚然。

在洞薩里湖邊，我們一行繳納過額外的一筆不菲的“預加項目”費用后，乘坐古老的木殼船航行半個小時后，近距離參觀了這些湖上人家的衣食住行。

這些建用舊油桶和木柴做浮塢的鐵皮和石棉瓦簡易房，廚房小到只有一兩平米，有的家戶居然還養著雞鴨貓狗，站在船幫上望著我們搖尾巴。其學校的籃球場，只是一個搬走小桌后不足三十平米的大“房子”而已!

這兒沒有醫院，卻有小超市。貨物幾乎都是我們八十年代記憶中的物件，而且還寥寥無幾，門可羅雀。

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湄公河兩岸的原始紅樹林

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　　這個大人是游客，小家伙是幫父親干活的六歲篙手。他的副業是行船中主動為大媽阿姨們捏肩捶背討點小錢。

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洞薩里湖的湖上人家

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岸邊高腳屋

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湄公河的沉香木

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金邊的湄公河上，可以看見皇宮的尖頂。

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姐妹廟的神樂演奏

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湖上人家

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徜徉在湄公河上看到的金邊皇宮

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　　再次回到金邊，將要打道回府的老牛一直在想，我們這些無所事事的游客，不遠千里來到這里，究竟一個個都揣著怎樣可鄙的想法呢？看了一場花錢的熱鬧？還是暗自得意年輕那陣沒能被逼上過送命的戰場？抑或，租個年輕的臨時“妻子”順便向她們傳播一番當代文明？

總之，想到這些，老牛一整天都心情不好。當天夜晚，已經交過錢的老牛，自愿取消了包含在這次旅游項目中的柬式按摩體驗。不為別的，因為我聽說那一處按摩的地方，恰恰緊挨著的盡都是一些為歐美人租妻服務的門店!

老牛一生做人雖夠不上清高，但卻一丁點都不猥瑣 ! 雖苦于手無縛雞之力、不能解救那些可憐的姐妹們出水火，但我完全可以選擇不去做羞辱他們的事情么!


【此文為游記《真臘掠影》的草稿，由于旅居三亞，無法做電腦校對，肯定有許多錯訛之處，請見諒】

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