家鄉的年棕

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<h3></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">小年過了，大年也就近了，懷念起家鄉的年粽來。</span></h3><h3><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><br></span></h3><h3><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);">年粽是廣西傳統的富于民族特色的春節美食，一個個碩大、內容豐富的粽子，寓意著一年的豐收與富足，年棕也是壯鄉人民春節走親訪友的禮品。</span><br></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 20.3px;"><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;"></span></h3> <p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">廣西的年粽與中國其他地區的粽子不一樣，傳統年粽做法是：先將糯米和開邊去皮的綠豆浸泡五到六個小時濾干，用少量食鹽拌勻；挑選盡可能肥的五花肉切成長條，用一種特制的一種叫</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">“</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">粽醬</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">”</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">的醬料腌制半天；粽葉是一種叫</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">“</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">冬葉</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">”</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">的竹芋科草本植物，不僅葉面寬大，氣味清香，而且還具有清熱解毒止血利尿等功效。三五張粽葉交錯攤開，然后一層糯米一層綠豆，中間放上一長條大大的五花肉，再一層綠豆一層糯米，最后將粽葉包裹、用草繩捆綁成長五角形類似金元寶形狀。煮年棕也是一道費時的工序，大鍋大火熬煮5-6小時才能將其煮至酥爛。</span></h3> <p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">包好的年粽一般有</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">1-2</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">斤以上，隨著人民生活水平的提高，人們在年粽里還放入板栗香菇蝦米香腸等等，年棕越包越大，甚至包入一整只雞。</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">2000</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">年，廣西南寧就以一只長</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">3</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">米，寬</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">2.1</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">米，高</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">1.2</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">米，重</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">2000</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">多公斤的巨形年粽獲得了吉尼斯世界紀錄。</span></h3> <p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">舊時，年夜飯過后，家家戶戶就開始忙乎起來，婦人們圍坐在桌前開始包年粽，男人們開始架鍋劈柴生火，一口約半米寬的大鍋盛著幾十個胖乎乎的年粽，歡跳著的柴火映照在圍著灶爐守夜的家人面龐，空氣中彌漫著淡淡的粽葉清香，夾雜著孩子們放煙花爆竹的噼啪聲和歡笑聲，好一幅溫馨祥和的景象。</span></h3> <h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">兒時的我在湖南出生長大，除了剁椒、糍粑、豬血豆腐圓子、臘肉等，對家鄉廣西的飲食認識并不多。父親</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">1954</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">年從廣西來到岳麓山腳求學，因其在大學期間不正確言論以及受被打成右派的大伯父影響，被</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">“</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">留放</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">”</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">在湘西。娶了辣妹子</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">—</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">我的母親，卻一直適應不了一日三餐甚至湯里都放一大勺剁椒的辣，終于在</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">24</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">年后，帶著一家</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">6</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">口返回故里廣西。</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 20.3px;"><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;"></span><br></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">心靈手巧的母親很快從祖母那學會了包年粽，于是年粽也成了我家春節必備的年貨。雖然那時年粽不一定在大年夜才包，但是等著吃</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">“</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">開鍋粽</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">”</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">總是令人期待和興奮。經過</span><span style="font-size: 17pt;">幾</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">小時的熬煮，糯米和綠豆已經酥爛，五花肉的肥油已經滲透到到糯米和綠豆中，甚至溢出到粽葉外，裹著年粽一層油亮，粽葉的清香和肉香米香豆香完全糅合在一起，讓你忍不住咽幾下口水。</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;"><br></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">我們弟兄姐妹幾個就圍坐在餐桌前，一人拿著一雙筷子，一邊看著父親慢條斯理地一層層打開熱氣騰騰的粽葉，一邊聽著他忍不住又講起兒時粽子的故事。</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;"><br></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">1944</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">年，身為電信局主任的祖父被日寇殺害，祖母帶著父親弟兄姐妹</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">7</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">人靠典賣首飾和替人漿洗衣服生活，日子過得十分清貧。過年了，當祖母包的開鍋年棕端上桌，才十一、二歲的父親饞粽子里的那塊肥肉，一筷子插到粽子中間，馬上被長兄為父的二伯父打手訓斥：</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">“</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">怎么那么沒有禮貌，粽子得從旁邊一點點往中間吃</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">”</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">！</span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;"><br></span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;"><br></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">父親一邊追憶著往事，一邊用筷子把長粽夾成幾段，把兩頭的沒肉沒豆的扒拉到自己跟前，說：</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">“</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">來，吃吧</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;">”</span><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">！于是孩兒們滿心歡喜地吃開了。</span></h3> <p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">對于年棕，我喜歡吃原味的，最饞里面的綠豆，而且最喜歡吃油煎年棕。把粽子切成片，放鍋里用少許油兩面煎至金黃，外面焦酥香脆，里面軟糯香甜，每次父親都會把那豆最多的挑給我，每次都吃到撐。</span></h3> <h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">后來，吃年棕的桌前添了一群孫兒孫女，父親依舊會講起“吃棕打手”的故事，依舊會把兩頭的粽子扒拉到自己跟前。</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;"><br></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">再后來，那年的今天，父親沒能等到那開鍋年棕，匆匆離去。</span></h3> <h3></h3><h3></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">紀念的方式有很多，今年，我在異國他鄉，以包家鄉年棕的方式來寄托對父親深深的思念。雖然干竹葉遠遠代替不了新鮮冬葉的清香，干醬遠遠沒有粽醬那么香醇，笨手笨腳的我也遠遠沒有母親包的那么漂亮，可那份感恩的心都融在肉最多的那塊年棕里。</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 20.3px;"><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText"; font-size: 17pt;"></span><br></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: ".PingFang SC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".PingFangSC-Regular"; font-size: 17pt;">懷念一道家鄉的美食，意味著懷念那故里和親人，那鄉音和親情。</span></h3>

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家鄉的年棕

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